Day two of Vancouver Fashion Week kicked off with a whole host of brand new, raw talent, completely new to the VFW stage (if you haven’t yet caught up on Day 1, you can refresh your memory here). This crop of talent is particularly exciting given the use of unusual textures and fabrication methods and a quirky new aesthetic. Here are the highlights…
Sculptural leather forms with an avant-garde twist were sent down Kristen Ley’s catwalk. Very reminiscent of early Alexander McQueen, Ley executes her vision through creative design and a nod to contemporary art. Highlights from the collection include geo moulded torso pieces, a molten metallic asymmetrical dress with texture clash tulle overlay and a balloon skirt made from metres of a swirling teal sea. Definitely one to watch.
This 17 year old designer constructs his designs by marrying street style with luxury materials. A mostly black collection weighted with heavy leather and wool in deconstructed shapes. Oversize is Mickelson’s signature aesthetic on the runway and one that works well in these textures.
Stephanie Moscall-Varey, the creative vision behind the womenswear label MOSKAL has already enjoyed global recognition for her design work so far. Her FW17 collection is heavily influenced by natural forms and fabrics and the delicate hues and fluid, feminine shapes make her pieces instantly identifiable. Carefully worked netting, sheer flowing skirts and a modern colour palette of lilac, cornflower and tangerine gave the show a theatrical dance aesthetic.
Trained in the UK and producing in South Korea, Hanjun Jo’s FW17 collection was K-fashion meets Savile Row. Inspired by 1920’s tennis, wool, cotton and PVC were layered in a mesh of verti-flow patterns and soft blocks of colour. Muted hues, soft fabrics, rough edges and asymmetric shapes were lifted to new styling heights via linear makeup and an uber strong beauty look.
Citing Anne Frank as the inspiration behind her collection, Kakopieros embeds dark and chaotic elements in her politically charged work. Using rubber and latex to reflect current worldly issues and using sheet fabric like a chalkboard for political statements, as so many other designers have done this season. This bondage-esque collection is laced with neon and horror in equal measures with the odd curse word thrown in for maximum impact. The erratic undertones are enhanced with the addition of disjointed Barbie appendages dangling from models’ ears and tucked into stockings. Club Kid wigs, fishnets and constricting facial jewellery topped off a collection that will leave you thinking about human trafficking, women’s rights, ‘fake news’ and those on the margins of human decency.
With Day 2, VFW FW17 has really hit its stride, keep it here for more highlights Voyeurs….